Japan: Kobe

🏞️Kobe: between the mountains and the coast

If you're in Osaka or Kyoto and wondering where else to hop off to for a day, Kobe is an excellent choice. For me, this day trip unexpectedly turned out to be one of my favourites. The smell of the sea and the calm of Japan, gorgeous views and great food – everything you need for a perfect day trip. Below I'm sharing my itinerary for one day in this port city.

🚆 Getting to Kobe

I started my journey from Osaka with the JR Kobe Line (JR Pass friendly)

🚉 From: Osaka Station
🚉 To: Sannomiya Station
⏱️ Journey time: 25–30 min
💴 Price: ~410 ¥ one way / ~820 ¥ return or included in the JR Pass

👉 This is a direct line with no changes, it has very frequent departures (every few minutes) and you arrive right in the city centre.

If you don't have a JR Pass and want a slightly more "budget friendly" version, I suggest the Hankyu Line – you board at Umeda Station (Hankyu), the price is around ~330 ¥ one way / ~660 ¥ return and the journey takes around 30 minutes.

What about getting around in town?

Kobe has excellent public transport, but for the most part you can walk. For somewhat longer distances, or if you want to save time, it's worth using:

• 🚇 the metro (e.g. to Shin-Kobe Station for access to the herb gardens)
• 🚆 local trains for quicker hops between parts of the city

Buses exist, but in practice you hardly need them. For a worry-free trip, carry a topped-up Suica or another IC card for simple ticket payments.

⛩️ First stop: Ikuta Shrine

Just 7 minutes' walk from Sannomiya Station and you're in a completely different world. Ikuta Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan (founded as early as the 3rd century!) and is dedicated to the deity of love.

The shrine is really lovely, a combination of red torii gates and a Japanese garden, a small grove behind the main building and loads of little details all around you. A nice contrast to the modern, lively city you find yourself in.

• 🕒 Opening hours: ~7:00–17:00/18:00 (depending on the season)
• 💴 Admission: free
• ⏱️ Recommended time: The shrine is small, so⏱️ 30–45 minutes is plenty for a visit.

🌿 Hidden gem: Sorakuen Garden

From Ikuta you can walk (approximately 10 minutes) to the only traditional Japanese gardens in the city: Sorakuen. The gardens were originally private, belonging to a former mayor, and later opened to the public. During the Second World War almost all the buildings in the garden were destroyed, but they were later successfully rebuilt, and now the garden is a perfect showcase of Japanese zen. The calm trickling of water, stone bridges, colourful flowers and coloured leaves, large ponds and perfectly arranged plants. A truly beautiful spot for a peaceful stroll.

• 🕒 Opening hours: ~9:00–17:00
• 💴 Admission: ~300 ¥
• ⏱️ Recommended time: 45–60 min

🚡 Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens

The next stop is a popular tourist spot with crazy views and beautiful nature. Keep your phone battery full, I'm sure you won't miss a photoshoot!

Directions: First I took the subway from Kencho-Mae to Shin-Kobe Station, and then followed the signs for Nunobiki Herb Gardens.

When you arrive, you first buy a gondola ticket – the admission to the gardens is already included. You can buy a one-way or a return ticket. The gondola takes you up to the top of the hill, and then you slowly stroll down. Along the way you'll find gardens, greenhouses, flower parks and magnificent views of the city and the harbour.

If you're short on time or your itinerary is packed so that you can't walk the whole way down, take a return ticket and at any point along the way you can decide to ride the gondola back to the city (the gondola stops along the way, so you don't need to go back up to the top of the hill).

• 💴 Gondola price: return: 2,000 ¥ (1,800 ¥ if you buy in advance through Klook) and 1,500 ¥ one way. In November and December the admission is higher.
• 🕒 Opening hours: approx. 9:30–17:00 (depending on the season)
• ⏱️ Recommended time: 2–3 hours

🍽️ Lunchtime

By this point I had quite a few steps behind me and of course it was time for food. Kobe is world-famous for its beef (aka Kobe Beef), and if you eat meat, this is one of those "once in a lifetime" experiences. But be careful: reservations are a must in advance, because the restaurants fill up quickly.

But if you're like me and looking for vegan options, I recommend Yidaki Cafe: a very cosy, more "homey" vibe, good food and a little break from the tourist pace.

🍶 Culture in liquid form: Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum (optional)

Kobe is also known for its sake production, among other things.

Location: This sake museum is located a little outside the centre – one stop back towards Osaka – so it's a bit awkward to fit into the itinerary. When planning your trip, you can organise your route so that you simply stop here on the way to Kobe or on the way back to Osaka (keep in mind the opening hours from 9:30 to 16:30). If you decide to take a break on the way back, I warmly recommend adding a walk around the harbour (the next point in the blog) to your itinerary before the museum. A third option is to ride out to the museum and then back to the city centre (allow approx. 30 minutes each way). And a fourth option is to visit this sake museum separately, on another day, since you can also ride to it directly from Osaka.

My personal recommendation is to arrive in Kobe as early as possible in the morning, see Ikuta Shrine in the quiet of the morning and finish the first activities by around 1-2 pm. Then, after lunch, take the train on a "detour" to Hakutsuru and return to Kobe after the museum, since a walk around the harbour is even lovelier in the evening hours and the colours of the sunset.

The museum stands on the site of a former sake brewery (from 1743) that was damaged by an earthquake and rebuilt using traditional wooden architecture. Today it serves educational purposes and as cultural heritage. Through the museum you learn about the history of sake and the production process, and you see all the equipment, vessels and brewing tools. At the end, of course, a tasting of many varieties awaits you, as well as a little shop with special seasonal editions of sake and various souvenirs connected with the craft.

Admission is free, if you come on your own – there are descriptions and explanations in English all around the museum, but they don't have their own guides who speak languages other than Japanese. If you want an English-speaking guide, websites like Klook and Getyourguide offer packages, but they start at around 70€.

Reservations aren't necessary for individual visitors, but if you're travelling with a group, you book by phone.

• 💴 Price: free on your own, with a guide through partners from 70€ upwards
• 🕒 Opening hours: approx. 9:30–16:30 (last entry at 16:00)
• ⏱️ Recommended time: 30-60 minutes

🌊 Kobe Harborland

Whether or not you decide on the sake museum, visit the harbour in the afternoon. I don't have any special sights to list here, but it's a very pleasant spot for a walk along the waterfront, shopping or a drink at sunset. At this point your batteries will most likely be relatively empty too, so take some time to rest, without rushing.

You can also hop on the ferris wheel by the waterfront for a 15-minute ride with a view of the city. The price is around 4-5€.

🥟 Evening in Chinatown: Nankinmachi

The last stop before I head home. Kobe also has its own Chinatown, full of street food, lights and souvenirs. It's loveliest in the evening, when the lanterns light up, which is why I saved it for the end. But honestly, I was already quite tired by this point and didn't take enough time to explore. If you have a bit more energy, I warmly recommend trying some street food, treating yourself to a shot of local spirits or having a nice dinner on a lively street.

🚆 To finish

And so another incredible day in Japan has passed. For me, Kobe was one of those underrated trips that pleasantly surprise you. It's not overly touristy, but it has everything – nature, culture, good food and a lovely finish by the water.

Thanks for reading this blog, and happy travels!